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Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Anatomy of a Lash and Brow Makeover Part 2 - The Brow Tint and Wax

Anatomy of a Lash and Brow Makeover Part 2 -  The Brow Tint and Wax.

Read Part One HERE
STEP 3: Get this PARTY STARTED!
The Brow makeover - getting eyebrows right takes time patience and practice. Like anything I didnt get good at this over night. It has taken me a few years to be really confident with waxing brows (and even them sometimes Im NOT confident at all) But here are some really simple rules to follow and you can get them right pretty much every time.
1. Relationship to the face - are the brows to light too dark to song too short too bushy or triangle shaped? Now what is in your bag of tricks to help ENHANCE them? Tinting Shaping or just good old patience and a plan?
How to tell if the shape is correct
Step 1- Hold a brow brush (or eye pencil) to the side of the nose remove any hair that is under that or on the mono brow part of the eye brow
Step 2 - Holding the brow brush in the same place move to the far corner of the eye. This will indicate how long the brow needs to be to frame the face correctly.
Step 3 - Still holding your brow brush on the corner of the nose get the clients to look straight a head then hold the brush across the center of their pupil - this will indicate where the rise of the arch of the brow should be.
These 3 easy steps will give you a really good idea of How the brow should be shaped and where the shaping should occur. As a rule if this is the person first brow wax I will err on the side of caution. WHY? Because you cant put it back.  Remember CONSULTATION never stops If in doubt ask. Give them a compact mirror and show the client WHAT you want to pluck out and let them decide.


The Brow TINT
***Tint should ALWAYS be applied PRIOR to waxing or plucking. The tint can get into the open pores of the skin where the hair has just been removed and cause staining or an infection. ALWAYS TINT FIRST!***

As you can see from the top pic in this group Madeline had really light brows, there was a good shape to work with but they were washed out. I wold normally look to a hair color for reference for a tint Madelines hair was dark with hints of honey. So I did two tints, a honey brown (3.1) and a dark brown (3). Originally I thought that a honey brown may have been sufficient but it wasn't quite as strong as I had hoped for a make over. So we did one over the other.

You can see from the comparison the bottom picture looks not over the top but natural subtle and more to the point you can make out the eyebrows. they provide shape and define the face while maintaining a natural look. 

To finish the brows we just needed to wax them. After using the guide that we established earlier It was easy to see on Madeline what we needed to remove to help her have an awesome shape. Once the bulk of the unwanted hairs were removed with wax, I then plucked out the few remaining strays that were ruining the line of the brow.
And now the result -


 There is a beautiful up sweep to the brow, its neat and frames the face beautifully.

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